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elcome, friends, to the year-end 2012 newsletter from Don and Colleen. 



Punta Arenas, Chile, closest port to Antartica
DOUBLE CLICK ANY PICTURE TO ENLARGE

As 2012 closes amid the latest appalling gun violence in the US, and the renewed despair from heightened tension in the Middle East and northern Africa, we reflect on our unbelievable good fortune to have the lives we do, and the friends we have with whom we share it.  The more we travel, the more we treasure the freedom, relative safety and prosperity we have in Canada.  Certainly those of us who live here are blessed.

2012 was another “bottom hemisphere” year for us, with major Spring and Fall trips targeting South America.

Palm Desert: Colleen "at the office"

San Diego: Got a paper towel?

The year began with our annual month in California, spread across January/February in mountain-ringed, endlessly sunny, Palm Desert, at our Marriott time-share condo. We added a few days in San Diego at travel buddies Lynn & Steve’s home, including a trip to the terrific San Diego Safari Park. 

Rio de Janiero: Sugarloaf Mt

From there, we flew on Valentine’s Day from LA to Rio de Janeiro – how romantic is that? - a most spectacularly situated sprawling city of 6 million, 25% of whom are very poor and live in about 600 favelas – shantytowns – scattered across the metropolis, predominantly – surprisingly enough – on the sides of the mountains where the views are best!

 



 


A favella in Rio

Because Brazil was discovered by Portugal, its language and culture is Portuguese – not Spanish as in most of Central and the rest of South America. Seeking a westward route to Asia - and thinking they had encountered a large island blocking their way - the first explorers of the future South America sailed into the mouth of a large river, on January 1, 1502, naming it the River of January - in Portuguese: Rio de Janeiro. Why does so much of life pass by without us having learned little tidbits of interesting detail such as this? Or were we taught them years before when we weren’t paying attention since we didn’t then care? Turns out that it was not a large river, but one of the world’s most geographically magnificent natural harbours instead, yet the name endured and was applied also to the settlement founded there 63 years later.
 

Viva Carnival !!

We arrived 3 days before the official start of Rio’s annual Carnival, but festivities were well underway and the city was humming with thousands of visitors adding excitement and chaos. This is the most visited city in the southern hemisphere  and IS exciting, with iconic locales: Sugarloaf Mt, Copacabana Beach, Ipanema Beach (and the Girl from), the Sambadrome, Maracana Stadium (one of the largest soccer venues in the world with capacity 200,000), and the Tijuca Forest – the largest city-surrounded urban forest in the world and a natural filter for Rio’s air quality. 

 

 



Christ The Redeemer on Corcavado

The most striking icon, however, is the awe-inspiring Christ The Redeemer statue towering over the city from Mt. Corcovado. At 130 feet tall, with broad arms spread to embrace and protect the population below, it is not only the 5^th largest Jesus statue in the world, but was constructed 90 years ago atop Rio’s highest mountain. Hard to believe the technology was available to do that back then. Not surprisingly, in 2007, it was named one of the 7 New Wonders of the World, and is Brazil’s most recognizable symbol. The beneficence of His beautiful face with His head bowed and arms outstretched, blessing the city below, is very emotional to witness.








Beautiful Buenos Aires

From Rio, we departed for 30 days on the cruise ship Star Princess – along with a mere 2500 others eager to see the spectacular highlights of South America, down one side and up the other, terminating in San Francisco. Of particular interest was the very European Buenos Aires - “Good Air” - where much of the architecture resembles Paris, a deliberate choice since the Argentineans admire Parisian sophistication.



Falklands protests in BA

Argentina's longstanding dispute with Great Britain over sovereignty of the Falkland Islands - Islas Malvinas in Argentina's mind - had recently re-kindled, and there were many rude protests in the harbour against the “British pirates”, and even our tour guide became incensed when I asked him about the legitimacy of Argentina’s claims. These little islands, 300 miles into the Atlantic from Argentina, with a population of fewer than 3000, have had more than their share of conflict.  Travel certainly exposes you to differing viewpoints.
 



Falkland Is: Anyone for a swim?

And we got to see the other viewpoint 2 days later when our cruise ship took us to these remote and rugged Falkland Islands.  Port Stanley had the good sense to offer us one of their few sunny days to visit the numerous penguins and the pubs with typical British fare. Little did we know that Argentinean displeasure with our visit there would prevent our ship from being permitted docking space a few days later at Ushuaia, Argentina, the port at the very tip of South America.



An exceptional day cruising the Beagle Channel

So, instead, we enjoyed a stunning day slowly cruising the Beagle Channel (of Charles Darwin fame), Glacier Alley, and the Chilean fiords that are at the bottom of South America, rather than the intended hasty sail through the area after a day in Ushuaia. It turned out that our ship’s refused entry became precedent setting for the cruise industry who still, a year later, is not permitted any Argentinean port stops if the Falkland Islands is on the itinerary, effectively stopping all cruise ship travel to the Falklands, since Buenos Aires is by far the preferred major tourist stop. This embargo will have a significant impact on the Falklanders’ economy.

 



Santiago, Chile: John Paul II visited this
Virgin Mary.in 1987 

As we headed up the west coast of South America, much of it was too impoverished for us to enjoy. Except for our visit to Santiago, Chile, which was a positive experience - passing miles of famous vineyards as we drove inland to this impressive city of architecture, museums, galleries and a volatile political past of numerous oppressive regimes – we would just as soon have not seen our stops in Ecuador, Peru, Costa Rica and Nicaragua, which were too disorderly and under-developed for our interests; seen once and done.

 

 



Cabo San Lucas: El Arco

In Mexico's Cabo San Lucas, we took a sunny catamaran sail to view the famous arch and to catch up with some whales on their northward migration. Sadly, this is now the only Mexican cruise port on most itineraries as a result of the drug trade and the recent attacks on tourists.

Sailing under the Golden Gate into San Francisco, one of our favorite places, was especially pleasing as we re-entered the “modern” world where we all live - and too often take for granted. Yahoo! Back in North America! Before finally returning home, we took a few more days in dreamy Carmel-by-the-Sea and Big Sur, seeing both places more appreciatively after where we had just been.

After a brief rest in Ottawa, we picked up our cats and shifted them and ourselves for April and half of May south to our house in Hilton Head, South Carolina – the wonderful investment we made in 2009 to run as a vacation rental. Although the economy still languishes south of the border, HH is very civilized with excellent restaurants and beautiful scenery, as well as a relaxing pace of life. Several friends visited over the course of our stay, and we had a wonderful time sharing our house and days.

Dave & Judi

Graham & Carrie

Suzy & Gordon

We experienced more local life last spring including excellent local theatre and the wonderful Hilton Head Symphony, led by the widely hailed and newly appointed James Morris Russell, who is also the principal conductor of the renowned Cincinnati Pops. Quite a catch for little Hilton Head. 



Richard & Betty

Sue & Jake

  

Our island retreat

Before you knew it: Hey, it’s summer again! And summer means the cottage and Christie Lake... and work, as anyone who has a cottage knows, since it is a money-pit and the tasks are endless - but (almost) always enjoyable.

Don "working"...



Christie Lake: Getting shallower

First task: more docks. Last winter, our entire Eastern Ontario region experienced a low total snowfall, and consequently in May all lakes were correspondingly low, so low in fact that there was insufficient water at our mainland boathouse – for the first time since at least 1949 when Colleen’s Dad bought the cottage.  Since our cottage is on an island, this was a significant obstacle. With one day of our labour, 24 feet of dock was added to the 14 foot projection we already  had, and we were floating!

David & Elly

We had visitors from the Mother Land, too; travel friends Elly & David, to whose home in England we have been several times, came out to see the colonies and stayed with us in Ottawa and at the lake. 

 

 

 

The movable feast that is the annual summer boating expedition of the longstanding Giffin Gang of 10 was convened this year on the Ottawa section of the Rideau Canal, with a lovely scenic glide in Barry & Sandy's pontoon boat right into the heart of downtown, and a luncheon at the National Arts Center - how civilized!


At the NAC: Refreshments for 10, please

Barry aims for the Chateau Laurier














Jan and Doreen

Summers end so quickly, and the older you get, the faster they zoom past. But with the end of summer in Canada comes c-o-l-d, and for us that means let’s get away from it. We took 3 short trips before the Fall odyssey. 

First, Niagara-on-the-Lake for a few Shaw Festival plays and a visit with Don’s mum and sister, Jan. 





Rue du Trésor, Quebec City

Then, on to charming Old Town Quebec City for a couple of nights touring with our San Diego buddies Steve & Lynn.  What a charming spot.  Filled with history and charm, it is a must-see for all Canadians and for  tourists wanting to understand Canada.

 

Mackenzie King Estate, near Ottawa

 

Steve & Lynn then returned with us back to visit Ottawa and the cottage, and to see the magnificent Fall colours of Quebec’s Gatineau Hills and Christie Lake. 

Hilton Head: New reflection

Finally, a quick couple of weeks in Hilton Head, relaxing and doing some maintenance at the house. As we said last year, if you haven’t seen Hilton Head, we suggest you treat yourselves: it is a small island of only 42 sq mi, just 20 miles north of Savannah, GA. It is heavily forested and has bylaws preventing the intrusion of noise, lights and commercial ugliness characteristic of so many oceanside resort communities, and is surrounded by soft sand beaches, quality stores, restaurants, golf, recreational activities, and culture.

Autumn blazes across Tuscany

Mid-November was launch time for our Fall odyssey. We flew from Ottawa to Rome, rented a car and drove north 3 hours to the Tuscany region which is renowned for its rolling hills and vast, glorious vistas. On a friend's recommendation (thanks again, Ilene), we settled in the scenically situated medieval town of Radda-in-Chianti, with its narrow streets and defensive walls, an hour north of Siena for those familiar with Italy, and did day trips from there. 







Rome's Piazza Navona (Fountain 1575)

This delightful time was followed by 3 nights in Rome – Roma, one of the great cities of the world – where we walked and walked, found little alleyways and tiny shops, and hidden churches with stunning baroque decoration, ate at sidewalk cafes, and revisited the magnificent St Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican Museums and the Sistene Chapel.   These sites are so awe-inspiring, so breathtaking, that it is easy to see why the Church held so many in its power for so long. We even were able to sit in on part of a service at St Peter’s.

Russ & Louise at the Trevi Fountain

Enjoyable also was a 1/2 day spent with multiple-trip Australian travel friends Russell & Louise, as well as a shared dinner at a restaurant along the Appia Antica in Rome with them and other multiple-cruise travel friends Barb & Stuart from LA, before they all headed out on a different ship for their adventures elsewhere.  The Appia Antica - the Appian Way - is the oldest road in Rome, dating back to 321 BC

Our suite on Marina (not exactly as illustrated)

The next event was our 18 night voyage on Oceania Marina from Rome to Rio de Janiero where we were sailing again with more multiple-trip cruise buddies: Steve & Ilene (Florida), Lee & Cheryl (New Jersey), George & Marg (Vancouver), and John & Denny (S Ontario). Look at the geographic distribution of our like-minded travel companions!

Marg, George, John, Denny

Lunch in La Orotava, Tenerife, one of the Canary Islands:
 Linda, Alec,Lee, Ilene, Cheryl, guide, Steve





The melee of Salvador, Brazil

Marina was a spectacular ship – our best one yet – and we had an amazing 18 days on board, stopping on this trans-Atlantic crossing at lovely Cartagena (Spain), Gibraltar, two Canary Islands, Africa’s Cape Verde, and then some ports in Brazil, before Rio. Truly a wonderful experience and we would highly recommend the ships of Oceania Cruises, IF you can find one at a reasonable price. It is high end and wonderful, but more costly than other lines. We are now carefully watching for Oceania specials since we so want to return.



Carolyn & Terry's view

From exciting Rio, we flew (21 hours...) to Palm Desert, California, to cat- and house-sit for friends Carolyn & Terry. Eight days of their beautiful house is not a hard assignment, and we are following it presently with an additional 7 days here in the desert at our Marriott timeshare condo, 4 blocks away. Following Christmas celebrated here, we return home for 3 weeks to visit our cats, friends and house, before we return to the Desert for a month of sun with many friends who also vacation here annually, so we are not lonely.

 

7,000 mi from home; Star Princess in Falkland Is

What a year! Our retirement opportunities amaze us, but we also realize that Time is fleeting and that certain areas of the world are now unsafe to visit, additional ones will likely become so, our health will not be maintainable at this hectic pace forever, and some countries' economies are collapsing - all factors mitigating against seeing all there is to see. The persistent and intractable world crises make us careful, of course, but we will pursue our travels aggressively since the opportunities may not be there forever. 






Champlain Lookout; Gatineau Hills near Ottawa



We have indeed learned also how truly wonderful our city, Ottawa, is, with its beauty, stability, safety and opportunities, now that we have more comparative travel experiences. Our foreign friends, too, express their surprise at our lovely capital city. Now, if only winter could be shortened...



Hilton Lac Leamy. Ottawa in distance: Carrie & Graham



Zorro & Ebony resting - as usual

Cruising the Ottawa River Parkway

 

We close with our wishes for a genuinely Merry Christmas - and for our Jewish friends, we hope you enjoyed a Happy Festival of Lights – and want to share with all of you on the link below, an insightful carol we have only recently discovered:  See, Amid The Winter's Snow, also known as Hymn For Christmas Day.   It was written by Rev Edward Caswall (1814–1878), with music composed by Sir John Goss (1800–1880) when he was the organist at St. Paul’s Cathedral in London.   Amid the commercial whirlwind that now typifies “Christ-mas”, pause for a moment, and reflect on its heartfelt lyrics from another time. 

Double click anywhere on the link which follows.

http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=amid%20the%20winter's%20snow&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CDYQtwIwAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dh2nyWpn-yE0&ei=vG_WUKC-DY2zigKMu4FI&usg=AFQjCNEC8By37Uooe4Y6aQllGn7rjPyduw&bvm=bv.1355534169,d.cGE



Adoration of the Shepherds
Gerard van Honthorst 1622

See, amid the winter's snow,
Born for us on Earth below,
See, the tender Lamb appears,
Promised from eternal years.

Chorus:
Hail, thou ever blessed morn,
Hail redemption's happy dawn,
Sing through all Jerusalem,
Christ is born in Bethlehem.

Lo, within a manger lies
He who built the starry skies;
He who, throned in height sublime,
Sits among the cherubim.

Say, ye holy shepherds, say,
What your joyful news today;
Wherefore have ye left your sheep
On the lonely mountain steep?

"As we watched at dead of night,
Lo, we saw a wondrous light:
Angels singing 'Peace On Earth'
Told us of the Saviour's birth."

Sacred Infant, all divine,
What a tender love was Thine,
Thus to come from highest bliss
Down to such a world as this.

Teach, O teach us, Holy Child,
By Thy face so meek and mild,
Teach us to resemble Thee,
In Thy sweet humility.

 

Happy Birthday, Jesus.

With our fond wishes for a happy, healthy 2013.

Colleen and Don